The beginning of August brought a welcome, cooling trend across central Italy, especially in the evenings. With this weather change, our eating habits have shifted away from lighter fare towards a heartier approach. This plate of polenta kept me warm as the winds swirled around Montefalco’s exposed central square. Ciauscolo, a soft, spreadable salami, has quickly taken its place as my favorite of all the cured meats. Apparently, I’m not alone — for centuries it, along with a slice of bread, kept generations of shepherds fed.
August is also the big summer festival in Montefalco. Traditionally, it is the time when the local wine workers get some time off while the grapes ripen. It is also a good time to rest up for the harvest that will begin in September. There are four parishes and each sets up a Taverna or restuarant with local specialties. Last night we enjoyed an antipasto of coratella, a stew of lamb innards (mostly the heart), and the gentleman sitting next to me had a whole plate of snails stewed in a spicy tomato sauce. There were more “normal” things to eat but, when in Montefalco . . .
